Visit Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat is the world’s largest religious monument that originated in the 12th century. Once a Hindu worshipping site, Angkor Wat fell into decline when the Khmers accepted Buddhism over Hinduism. Rediscovered only recently (in the 19th century), it now features reconstructed temples and splendid architecture, to say the least. The complex assumes central position of a fairly large island, which is encircled by a water moat. Such a creation illustrates the Khmers’ belief on how the universe was established; the moat represents the oceans encircling the earth, while the galleries are concentrated around a structure with five towers, symbolizing the Mount Meru, home of the gods.

Angkor Wat’s exquisite artwork covers provinces of Hindu religion and nature. Most striking are female cloud spirits called Apsaras, followed by carved figures of mythical beasts, guardian lions, and even Buddha sculptures. Lotus blossoms, referring to various Hindu beliefs (Brahma’s birth is among them), are also to be looked for.

The best way to familiarize yourselves with this marvellous site is to hire a professional or local guide. Sunrise is the best time of the day for taking photos.

Visit Angkor Thom

Angkor Thom was once a religious, official and military center of the great Khmer Empire, with countless temples, Imperial palace and other noteworthy establishments. Heavily fortified, Angkor Thom is also encircled by a moat, which once upon a time was abundant with crocodiles. Angkor Thom is traversed by four causeways, edged by balustrades sculpted with nagas (half human half cobra beings), gods and demons.

Within a huge city, big faces carved on the walls, bas-reliefs and other intricate details, decorating soaring towers, terraces and other establishments awaits you. The Bayon Temple, for example, features outside reliefs depicting historical events, while those inside get you into a legendary world, where gods rule and underworld creatures lurk.

Other noteworthy establishments include the Terrace of the Leper King (probably an imperial crematorium), Terrace of the Elephants ( a stone wall decorated in a parade of pachyderms, mahouts, garudas and lions), and Preh Palilay (former worshipping place claimed back by nature).

Once you have a basic knowledge of the Angkor Thom and Angkor Wat complexes, the best way to explore is to rent a bike ($2) and experience these architectural marvels at your own pace. Also, note that to enter the Angkor Archeological Park, you’ll need one of three available passes (1-day pass: $20, 3-day pass: $40, 7- day: $60).

Take a food tour

The traditional cuisine of Cambodia is quite unknown outside the country’s borders and most people don’t realise that the basics of Khmer cuisine were set well before the 16th century.

The rich culture and history of this region has left an imprint on the national cuisine which, in the main, rely on the country’s abundance of freshwater fish – there are more than 500 varieties – plentiful indigenous herbs and spices, and uniquely Khmer flavours like prahok (fermented fish that is stomped like grapes) and syrupy, fragrant palm sugar. Meat, seafood and duck eggs also feature prominently in local Khmer dishes. Local delicacies, such as the rice cake or fruit shake, always prove a worthy closure to the end of a long day.

To get acquainted with the best of this outstanding cuisine, you would be best served to take a guided food tour. Angkor Street Eats (angkorstreeteatscambodia.com) is one such company that is consistently regarded as the best guided street food tour operating out of both Siem Reap and Phnom Penh.

Be entertained with the Apsara dance

Having acquainted yourself with Apsaras through carvings at Angkor Wat’s temples, you can now enjoy their dance. In the centuries past, the Apsara dance was performed only for the monarchs and their families, while today it represents an important part of the Khmer national folklore. It’s estimated that the dance originated in the 12th century.

The Apsara dance used to be performed by female dancers, but nowadays they are accompanied by males. It’s, generally speaking, a gentle performance with a lot of symbolism in it. The dance consists of several stages (Dialogue with God, Glorious Kingdom, etc.) and Khmer martial arts, temple structures and festivals also form part of the performance. Each stance and position has a special meaning. “Today”, for example, is indicated by a pointing finger to the heavens. As you enjoy the performance, you’ll certainly remember that their movements are those illustrated on the walls of the Angkor Wat temples.

Take a look at the floating villages

To the south of Siem Reap lies Cambodia’s great Tonle Sap Lake, which is a natural reserve and a place where humans live in harmony with nature. Depending on the season that you visit, you will either see houses sitting on the water surface, or up high on stilts significantly above it. It is dependent on the natural phenomenon that fills the lake through the Mekong River during the wet season and empties it during the dry season. The amplitudes of the water levels may range up to 10 meters.

A few communities gravitate to Siem Reap on the northern shore, with Kampong Khleang as the largest and farthest (35 kilometers), but also most convenient for tourists. Besides stilted houses, you can see huge fishing nets (half of the fish caught in Cambodia is from this lake), shrimp and crocodile farms, floating schools and markets, watery streets, etc.

Experience intact nature

The Tonle Sap Lake natural reserve abounds with mangrove forests, making it rich in wildlife. A myriad of fish and bird species, some of which are endangered, inhabit the reserve, as well as crocodiles, turtles and otter among other wildlife.

Prek Toal bird sanctuary is a breeding ground for endangered species, and you can take a closer look by going on a boat tour. The dry season (December – May) is the best time for bird watching activities, when among others you can find Grey-Headed Fish Eagle, Milky Stork and Spot-Billed Pelikan, to mention just a few.

Pay a visit to the Angkor National Museum

If you head to the Angkor Archeological Park, it’s worth making a stop and visiting the Angkor National Museum. Here, you can obtain comprehensive knowledge of the Khmer civilization, which enhances your understanding of the Park’s symbolism should you opt for a visit without a guide. A two-hour visit would suffice. Note however, that there is an admission fee of $12.

The museum exhibits works of art discovered and salvaged during archaeological works. Interactive displays facilitate your exploration taking you through galleries elaborating Hinduism and Buddhism, pre-Angkor and Angkor periods, time of the kings (emperors)… Highlights include a Buddha Shelter by Naga sculpture, Standing Vishnu (a Hindu deity), and Ganesha (a human with a head of elephant).

Take a peek into the not-so-distant past of Cambodia at the Landmine Museum

During the 1970s, Cambodia was ruled by the repressive Khmer Rouge. In that period, countless landmines were planted throughout this beautiful country, and it is estimated that many of them are still out there.

The Landmine Museum displays a collection of landmines, mortars, rifles and other weaponry. The Museum’s curators are people who got hurt by stepping on the mines. Here, you can hear a story about Aki Ra, a Khmer de-miner who single-handedly neutralized endless mines, and re-live his life in an reconstructed entertainment area where you try to locate deactivated mines. The museum can be found near Banteay Srei.

Summary

Besides these recommended must-do activities, there is so much to discover in Siem Reap. In fact, take a stroll through its commercial areas and something is bound to pop up, be it a cheap massage, spa treatments, cooking classes, or something completely new. Shopping is also fun, but don’t fall for stories about “the antique artifacts”. It’s not that there aren’t any, but do be extra careful since exporting artifacts from Angkor is forbidden.

And finally, the name Siem Reap literally means “Defeat of Siam”, alluding to banishment of occupying Siamese forces (Thailand) from the ancient Khmer capital Angkor Thom.

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Where am I?

Preah Sisowath (in honour to King Sisowath who reigned between 1904 and 1927) Avenue – To most tourists this is simply ‘the riverside’ or ‘waterfront’ and represents the heart of Phnom Penh. The waterfront is lined with great restaurants, bars, cafes and a never ending line of cyclo drivers.

Street 240 and 240 ½ – Tree-lined street 240 is awash with colonial era villas, 1960’s shop houses, wine bars, café ‘s, boutiques and some of the best eateries in all of South East Asia.
Street 178 – This is Phnom Penh’s ‘Art Street’. Lined with art galleries and street side local sculpture shops this is the street to let your artistic side really spring to the fore.

Boeung Ken Kang (BKK1) – This area that has been accommodating expats and foreigners since the 1980’s. Spend time wandering around this area of tranquillity and you will undoubtedly stumble upon a number of gems that are neither obvious or easy to find.

Where to stay

The choice really is endless but here are a number of suggestions.

La Rose Suites – this luxurious, unique and stylish hotel is quite possibly the perfect place to stay. Currently rated number 1 of 249 hotels in Phnom Penh on Trip Advisor, La Rose always succeeds in pleasing even the most discerning of guests. larosesuites.com

Raffles Hotel le Royal – Five-star luxury with that unmistakable Raffles old world charm. Celebrated guests have included Charlie Chaplin, Jackie O and more recently Barrack Obama and Angelina Jolie. The poolside is a lovely place to relax and let the day slowly pass by. raffles.com

The Pavilion – Super hard to get a booking as this hotel consistently delivers in all areas. Excellent location, tranquil private setting, professional service and a great swimming pool. thepavilion.asia

Boddhi Tree Aram – for value and location, the Boddhi Tree Aram is hard to beat. This eight-room gem comes with modern, high-ceilinged guest quarters accented with period touches, like original floor tiles. And the surrounds couldn’t be more atmospheric: a quiet and charming corner of the capital behind Wat Botum, site of one of the city’s oldest pagodas. boddhitree.com

The White Mansion – This popular boutique hotel in the former US Ambassador’s home offers elegant, spacious rooms and friendly service. The deluxe rooms have great balconies that offer that little extra ambiance in such a frenetic city. hotelphnompenh-whitemansion.com

Cara Hotel – Just a block from the river, this reliable, inexpensive option has clean rooms, satellite TV, free Wi-Fi and friendly service. hotelcara.com

See the History

Much of Cambodia’s history is extremely painful and hard to believe. When in Phnom Penh and particularly if you have an interest in history there are a number of things you really must see.

The Killing Fields

The Killing Fields are part of the horrific legacy left by Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge. The memorial park at Choeung Ek, outside Phnom Penh, commemorates the many thousands of victims of the Khmer Rouge. The startling centrepiece stands as testament to the horrors inflicted under that regime. The free audio guide which comes with the entrance fee at the Killing Fields paints the picture well. It describes how the site would have looked during the Khmer Rouge’s reign and includes first-person accounts of those who were there at the time. It puts into perspective what you can see today.

Tuol Sleng Genocide (S21) Museum

Prior to 1975, Tuol Sleng (‘hill of the poisonous trees’) was a high school; during the four-year rule of the Khmer Rouge, it became one of the country’s most notorious torture facilities. Today it is a museum and a grave reminder of what took place here.

Eat

Topaz – excellent food, great service, extensive wine list. Really one of the restaurant ‘gems’ in Cambodia’s capital city.

Daughters of Cambodia – Sugar and Spice Café – Great in every way; food, value, service and above all it is for a great cause.

Armand’s – Cosy French bistro with excellent beef. The steak flambé is seriously good.

Zino Wine Bar – Good food and great wine. Could you ask for much more?

Doors Music + Tapas – Wonderful food, top notch service and sensational tapas right next to the Cara Hotel.

Drink

Himawari Microbrewery – Craft beer can be hard to come by in South East Asia but the Himawari Microbrewery is the exception. Their beer sampler is fantastic and all this on the banks of the mighty Mekong.

Bar.Sito – Hidden away, this stylish bar is for those in the know. Their signature espresso Martini is seriously good and will ensure that you stay awake to drink a few more!

Foreign Correspondents Club – Legendary drinking haunt that keeps on keeping on.

Garbage Bar – Don’t let the name fool you. Laid back atmosphere, cold beer with a pleasant outdoor area.

Le Moon Terrace Bar – Atop the Amanjaya Pancam Hotel, with views of both the hopping riverfront and the Royal Palace, you’d be hard pushed to find a better sunset viewpoint.

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When touring the Royal Palace don’t simply run from one point of interest to another; take your time to have a look at the corners, too. Also, note that certain sections are closed to the public since the Royal Family resides here. The Royal Palace can be reached by tuk tuk from anywhere in Phnom Penh within 20 minutes.

Royal Palace Compound

High sculpted walls and the golden spires of the Royal Palace are the most dominating features of the Cambodian capital’s skyline. Once inside the compound, allow yourselves to be amazed by the cohesion of exquisite architecture and endless beauty of the tropical garden, but also take a closer look at the spires; some of these terraced creations are additionally embellished with images of Buddha.

Most of the buildings’ roofs feature the classic Khmer style, as well as the majority of structures. The most noticeable, since it dominates the façade of the Sothearos Boulevard, is known as Moonlight Pavilion. From its balcony, the king would make speeches to people gathered below and oversee parades. It is also where the king receives foreign visitors and organises Royal banquets.

On the opposite side of the Victory Gate you will find the Throne Hall. It is a principal audience hall, where high-level meetings and coronation ceremonies take place. Before entering, you should observe the roof (golden colored tiles) and the spire that makes the Throne Hall 59-metres high. Inside, sculptures and busts of Cambodian kings and queens are displayed; however, your attention will most certainly be occupied by the thrones and ceiling artwork. Two traditional thrones are accompanied with a modern western-style one, while the frescoes decorating the ceiling illustrate a local epic poem, “Reamker”. Meaning “the Glory of Rama”, the poem shows how good and evil balance each other.

In the adjacent Hor Samrah Phirun (“Where one sleeps peacefully”) you can observe gifts the king received from foreign dignitaries, as well as a collection of musical instruments and implements used in processions. The name refers to the resting area where the king, before Royal processions, awaits to mount an elephant.

Edifices featuring European architectural styles are located in the upper left section of the Royal Palace Compound.

The Napoleon III Pavilion is the oldest standing structure within this complex. Built in 1869 for the needs of Empress Eugenia (Napoleon III’s wife), and gifted to King Norodom a few years later, it houses today a small museum, exhibiting Royal memorabilia and photos.

The adjacent Damnak Chan Pavilion is a mixture of Khmer (roof) and European (body) styles. This building is closed to the public.

A word or two about the location of the Royal Palace. Commissioned in 1866, the grounds were chosen with care by the Royal astrologists. In their calculations, they discovered a connection that this place shared with the gods, whose descendant on earth is the king.

Silver Pagoda

The Silver Pagoda enclosure is a rather strange religious establishment since its uniqueness lies in the fact that monks don’t reside here. Nevertheless, it is where the king meets with them in various discussions and sermon attendances, even Royal ceremonies. According to many, the gardens of the Silver Pagoda, which are dotted with monuments to former kings, best those in the Royal Compound. A model of the legendary Angkor Wat can also be found in these gardens.

As you enter this section of the Royal Palace from the Royal Compound, you’ll be immediately drawn to the “Temple of the Emerald Buddha” (Wat Preah Keo Morokat). However, be sure to turn around and take a glimpse of the Ramayana Frescoes which covers the inner side of the Pagoda compound walls. Ramayana Frescoes is the largest mural creation in South Asia, and you’ll certainly recognise some scenes from the Reamker legend if you have paid a visit to the Throne Hall.

The Temple of the Emerald Buddha is both a worshipping place and a treasury repository. Commonly known as Silver Pagoda, it shelters priceless cultural heritage. Here you will find various gilded Buddha sculptures, Buddha relics in a small stupa made of gold and silver, and other contributions made by nobles and royal members from foreign countries. A statue of Buddha sitting on a gilded dais, made of emerald (or baccarat) crystal, is credited for the temple’s official name. As for its unofficial name (Silver Pagoda), handmade silver tiles covering the floor are accountable for it. Another highlight is “the Buddha of the future” statue. Weighing around 90 kg, it’s a golden creation, adorned with over 2000 diamonds; the one adorning the crown is a 25-carat diamond.

If you believe in fortune telling, you have come to the right place. There are a few places where you can discover what the future may hold, but you’ll need help with the translation. These places are, the Keong Preah Bath, the Library (to the left as you enter the Pagoda compound) and Phnom Mondop.

You don’t have to bathe in Keong Preah Bath, but you have to see footprints of Buddha. The Library contains sacred texts and manuscripts, Buddha statues and an image of a sacred bull, Nandin. Phnom Mondop symbolizes Mount Kailas (a sacred mountain to Hindus and Buddhists), and an attached shrine contains Buddha’s footprint. 108 Buddha’s lives are illustrated with 108 images.
The Silver Pagoda grounds are dotted with a couple of memorials and stupas honoring former rulers and their family members. You’ll recognise them by characteristic temple-like motifs.

Summary

The Royal Palace does get pretty crowded on Sundays, but this does mean your experience could prove to be more interesting. Note that there is no way around the strict dress code, and if you aren’t dressed properly, be prepared to rent appropriate clothing to be allowed into the complex.

Guides are available at the entry point, but you should make it clear that you don’t want to be rushed during your tour. If in doubt, you can always rent an audio guide.

Best time for taking photos is in the morning, but sunset is also splendid.

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